Maintenance
Subject |
Details |
Contributor |
Refinishing floor boards, hatch & step |
The floorboards, hatch and step are made of marine plywood with a teak veneer on each side. To protect these apply Sikkens Cetol Marine (Satin). WM #539106. Mask off top rectangles and add a non-skid compound such as Pettit 9900 Skidless WM #320200 compound to the Cetol prevent slippage. When refinishing only lightly sand as the teak veneer is very thin. |
Richard Ray |
Noisy outboard motors |
Tired of fighting with the outboard motor. Consider installing a lightweight Honda Saildrive inboard. Click here for picture |
Richard Ray |
Above deck electrical connections |
Keeping an electrical connection that is above deck from corroding can be challenging. There is a solution, move the connection below decks by using a Blue Sea CableClam through deck fitting. This allows an electrical cable and connector to run through the deck, but allow the cable and connector to be removed at a later time. (WM #540732). Click here for a picture. |
|
Running backstay deployment system |
This system allows the running backstays to be completely accessible to the crew without any hassle. Simply pull the running backstay on and when you are ready to jibe let it off and it will automatically be retracted forward next to the shrouds out of the way stored for the next use. Easy to install with minimal cost. Do it and you will love using your running backstays, every time, always, and forever!Parts list: 4 Harken single swivel blocks (417) 8 Hog Rings for 3/16" bungy cord 50' of 3/16" bungy cord The swivel blocks get attached to the forward pad eye and the rear pad eye as indicated in the photos. Hog rig one end of the bungy cord to the forward pad eye, run it through the rear swivel block and the through the forward swivel block the attach the end to the bottom of the low Harken block on the running backstay. Use two hog rings at each bungy attachment point. Click here for a picture |
SAILsports & Mark Hlubucek |
Shorthanded jib trimming and tacking |
When shorthanded sailing there is no easy way to drive and trim and tack the jib. By installing some extra hardware this can be accomplished.Mount a Harken 40mm Carbo (2636) block to the spinnaker block pad eye then install a Harken Cam Cleat (150) plus a Harken Cam Cleat Riser (295) and Harken Fairlead (424) back from the pad eye 8". Run the jib sheet as normal then across the cockpit to the Harken 40mm block then through the Harken Cam Cleat. Now driving and trimming is possible from the high side. Click here for a picture. |
Richard Ray |
Climbing the mast |
Climbing the mastWhen shorthanded climbing the mast can be a real challenge. By putting together a 4:1 purchase and a rock-climbing device called an Ascender (Available at REI) this chore is simplified. Haul the double block to the top of the mast with a halyard then clip a bosuns chair or climbing harness to the bottom of the Petzl B-17 Ascender via the Wichard Carabiner. Going up the mast becomes almost fun. Click here for a picture. |
Richard Ray & Michael Duvall |
Stepping the mast |
Here is a neat solution for stepping the mast. Click here for a solution. |
Dave Prucnal |
Cockpit locker drainage |
Sometimes a fair amount of water can find itself in the cockpit locker. Instead of having to crawl down into it with a sponge and bucket install a drain plug. The water then can drain into the bilge where it is easier to pump dry. From inside the cabin, underneath the cockpit mount a RWO Drain Socket & Plug (WM#131719). Mount at the lowest point possible just above the hull floor. Drill a 5/8" hole through the cockpit locker bulkhead. Use two #6/32 1/2" pan head bolts with backing washers and nuts to secure the drain socket. Click here for a picture. |
Tom Montoya |
Spinnaker Sheets |
Often the spinnaker sheets would fall between the shrouds and the lifelines allowing them to catch. By placing a small loop of spectra line between the lifeline and the V1 shroud this can be prevented. Click here for a picture. |
Richard Ray |
Nexus instrumentation lighting |
The Nexus displays offer lighting, however, to turn it on requires a press of the [Mode] key for two seconds, then the illumination level needs to be selected. A simpler solution is to run a single wire from the electrical panel switch connected to the navigation lights to pin 13 of the Nexus CPU. This will turn on the Nexus display lighting when ever the navigation lights are turned on. |
Richard Ray |
Running backstay storage |
The running backstays, if left loose can end up forward of the spreaders or hung up on the mainsail battens. A simple 3/16" 30" bungee cord about 24" above the lower spreaders around the front of the mast tied and taped to each running backstay can prevent this from occurring. Click here for a picture. |
Dennis Surtees |
Self steering |
When shorthanded an autopilot can be a big help. The Raytheon ST2000 makes a good choice. It can sail to a heading, to a waypoint or an apparent wind angle. Mount this autopilot with the assistance of the optional cantilever bracket to the side of the cockpit. The autopilot and bracket are easily removed when not in use. Connect the autopilot power connector pins (1-+12VDC and 2-0VDC) to the switch panel with 16 gauge duplex wire connected to the autopilot power connector. To interface the autopilot to the Nexus System. Run a duplex 20 gauge wire from the autopilot power connector pins (6-NMEA+ and 5-NMEA-) to the Nexus CPU pins (11-NMEA out and 12-Return). Set Nexus configuration C95 = d0. |
Richard Ray |
Rig tensioner safety line |
To prevent the rig tensioner from going completely slack in the event a block or rope clutch failed add a spectra safety line to the rig tensioner. The line runs through the swage eye then back down to the mast base plate. Make sure the safety line is completely taught with a minimal amount of rig tension on. Click here for a picture. |
Steve Rienhart |
Jib foot caught on forward stanchion |
The jib has a tendency to catch on the forward stanchion. Mounting Harken Rondo Chafe Protectors just forward of the stanchion will allow the jib to roll over the stanchion. Click here for a picture. |
John Shepard |
Storage / cooler |
The port side counter top can be made into a nice storage bin or cooler. Use one or two small Tempress Access Hatches and Liners. Following the template included with the hatches - use a jig saw to cut the correct size opening. Uses 10 #12 x 1" Philips Pan bolts for each hatch.Tempress 11 x 15 Gray Access Hatch (WM #183675) Tempress Small Liner (WM #488429) Click here for a picture Click here for a picture An extra liner can be used with the starboard Tempress Access Hatch also. |
Richard Ray |
Unused sheets |
The unloaded jib or spinnaker sheets tend to want to fall over and drag in the water even when properly stored in the sheet bag. By adding a cam cleat to the sheet bag the excess line can be locked in place. Use a Harken 150 camcleat and two #10 x 2.5" bolts for each side. Click here for a picture. |
Steve Rienhart |
Lower interior step |
The lower step has a tendency to be knocked loose out of the side guides. Mount a Sea Dog Hammock Hook (WM #104323) about 5" below each side of the step. Use two Starbrite 12" Sail Gaskets(WM #275290) placed over each end of the step and latched to the Hammock Hook. Click here for a picture. |
. |
Spinnaker halyard jumping |
The spinnaker can be hoisted much faster at the mast. This presents a couple of problems. After hoisting a pile of line will be at your feet and there is no where to cleat the line. By installing a cam cleat on the mast the spinnaker halyard can be temporarily cleated on the mast. Once the spinnaker is flying the halyard can be tailed from the cockpit and pulling it firm will release it from the mast cam cleat.Use a Harken 150 cam cleat and an OTL 1000 Cleat Mast Mount from Layline (800) 542-5463. Mount it low enough that the spinnaker halyard will normally run free and over the top of the cam cleat. This way when its locked in a simple tug from the cockpit will release it to be held with the Spinlock rope clutch. Use a #10-24 tap for the bolts included with the bracket. Click here for a picture. |
John Shepard |
Spinnaker dousing |
Using a tack retrieval line can simplify dousing the spinnaker. Attach one end of the line to the tack running it under the sheets and the other end to the cabin top on the dousing side.When it comes time to douse, release the tack line and pull in the tack retrieval line then gather the foot of the spinnaker then release the spinnaker halyard while gathering the sail. |
Scot Mondle |
Mainsail storage |
An easy way to store the mainsail is to roll it from the foot as it is slowly lowered with the main halyard. This also makes relaunching easy as the head of the sail is right at the top of the rolled sail. |
Steve Rienhart |
Gel batteries |
From time to time a depleted gel battery in the Antrim 27 needs charging. A typical auto battery charger can easily damage a gel marine battery by overcharging it. One can spend allot of money and get marine battery charger with a gel setting or use this simple solution. It's called the Battery Tender. It won't overcharge the gel battery nor will it charge a depleted gel battery in a super fast time. Allow 12 hours. |
Richard Ray |
To have the Nexus Multi display repeat GPS info follow these steps.
|
Richard Ray |
|
Placing Antrim 27 on trailer from hoist |
When dry storing the Antrim 27 on the trailer without the intent to tow any significant distance (i.e. over a few miles):Using hoist, hover boat over trailer about 2' back from the trailer bow winch. Attach winch strap to boat and tension. As the hoist operator moves the boat slightly forward tension the winch strap. This will guide the boat right where it needs to be on the trailer. To avoid chafe do not bring bow snug into the bow roller on the trailer. Allow tensioned winch strap about 2" - 3" of length. Lower boat on trailer setting it on the bunks. If needed lower keel down on to keel bunk. Click here for a picture. |
Richard Ray |
Sliding hatch security |
The stock sliding hatch has one eye to place a lock through it. With a little force and upward pressure the hatch slides forward even with a lock in place. To correct this problem mount an eye bolt on the hatch/step 1/2" below the sliding hatch in alignment with the eye. This will prevent the lock from being lifted and the sliding hatch from going forward. Use a 1/2" eye bolt (WM #599225), cut the shaft length to 1/2" then recess the backing washer/bolt in the hatch/step. Fill recess hole with silicon sealant. Of course the eye bolt will be facing down when the hatch is used as a step. Click here for a picture. |
Carol Ray |
Outboard security |
While the cockpit locker can be locked from inside the Antrim 27 via the access cover far aft an easier solution to securing a gas tank and outboard is via a cable lock and installing a Wichard Watertight U-Bolt (WM #367386). Mount the eye just above the access cover. Run the cable through the motor, fuel tank and U-Bolt to prevent theft. Click here for a picture. |
Carol Ray |
Exterior gelcoat surfaces - hull and underbody only! |
An addendum to applying the 303 to the boat particularly under the waterline. McLube SailKote Dry lubricant is fantastic. West Marine sells it in a two quart container either liquid or aerosol. With cotton gloves on and with a couple of cotton polo rags wipe the complete. fifteen minutes later come back with a clean rag and wipe off. |
John Shepard |
Rudder cover |
The rudder cover is great for protecting from sun light and dings, but in stock format it only fits when the rudder is removed from the boat. To allow it to cover while the rudder is installed -
|
Steve Rienhart |
Vang |
Replace that difficult to use Spinlock vang with a Vangmaster. It supports the boom on a cushion of air. No noisy springs or interlock mechanisms to wear out. Click here for a picture. |
Richard Ray |
Keel lubrication |
The keel should be sprayed with silicone lube in the area at the keel expansion point, 18-18.5" or so below the underside of the keel plate.SAILsports Outhaul cleatThe standard outhaul cleat will quickly destroy the outhaul line. Solution is a Ronstan RF-5 Pivoting base block with a cam cleat. Makes easy access to outhaul line. Click here for a picture. |
John Shepard |
Jib halyard |
Getting the feeder line tied with a knot to the wire jib halyard can be difficult. Use a very small diameter feeder line such as New England Ropes Kev-Kord 3/32" and it will slide much easier. |
Richard Ray |
Main halyard chafe |
Since the Antrim 27 does not have a tack pin to limit how high the mainsail can be hoisted, it is quite easy to pull the halyard up too high. Certainly if you are pulling it up until it stops, you are pulling it up to far, because it is stopping when the halyard shackle hits the crane. This is not desirable, nor is it the intended way to use the halyard.In use, the halyard shackle should be below the crane by 2 or 3 inches. You may want to put a mark on the halyard at the deck so you can tell when the head is in the proper position. |
Kame Richards |
Outboard Noise |
For outboards that have a removable cover (i.e. Nissan 5):Apply some foil sided foam insulation (1/4" thick) to inside cover. Cut pieces to fit each side. About 9 square feet is all that is needed. Can be purchased at most hardware stores. About $1.00 a foot in 3 feet wide. Attach with 3M double sided tape. Total cost: ~$6. Compare with WM Outboard Noise Reduction Kit 372136 $54.49 . |
Richard Ray |
Running Rigging Specs |
Mainsheet: 56' 10mm New England Ropes Spect-set II, with tight eye splice to attach fine trim flying block. (Spectra/Polyester) (White/Red tracer)Spintack: 65' of 5/16" Yale Maxibraid Plus. (Yellow/Blue tracer) Spinsheet: 70' per side, 64' of 3/8" Yale Light IC Spliced into 6' of 3/16" spectra. Splice 3/16" spectra together, forming single tail to tie onto sail. (Spectra/Polypropylene) (Red/Blue tracer) Rig Adjuster: 20' of 5/16" Yale Crystalyne, core only eye splice to attach to becket. Stitch cover onto core just past eye splice. (Vectran/Polyester) (Red/Yellow/Orange) Running backstay tails: 20' of 3/8" Yale Vizzion, with eye splice to attach to becket, IC spliced onto 1/4" Excel Marstron tails. (Vectran/Polyester) (Black/Gold tracer) Fine tune: 26' of 5/16" Samson XLS. (Polyester/Polyester) (White/Red tracer) Bowsprit: 40' of 5/16" Yale Aramid T-85, with flemish reeving eye spliced in bitter end. (Red) All dimensions above are finished lengths, after splicing. Layline is the best source for cut lengths, spliced and whipped, from different manufacturers. contact: Henry Mallard (800) 542-5463 |
Steve Rienhart |
Spreaders / Sail Chafe |
Upper Spreaders - Tempo Spreader Boots T424 Lower Spreaders - Tempo Spreader Boots T426 |
Steve Rienhart |
Bilge |
Petit two-part Poly PoxyJobn Shepard Inside cockpit storage compartment and under the cockpit belowDri Dek panelsJohn Shepard Lower front mastSimpson Lawrence Treadmaster Step Pads. Place two on to prevent knicks and scratchesJohn Shepard Asymmetrical spinnakersTend to get caught in the angle formed between mast and upper furler. To prevent damage:Rigging tape on pins in furler and any other sharp areas. Shock cord attached with hog rings stretched across D2's; one piece touching the front of the furler, tape the contact area to prevent wear, and another across the D2's about 12'- 18' below will keep the spin. from getting caught. |
Bryce Griffith |
Furler tang chafe |
In order to protect wear on the deck from the furler tang place 4.5" length of a 1-1/8" Davis Turnbuckle Boot over the front forestay tangs and just under the jib shackle, sitting top of the Harken furler and extends above deck about 3/4". |
Steve Rienhart |
Outboard motor bracket |
|
Geoff Longenecker |
Mast step bolt |
Several Antrim 27's were commissioned without putting the forward mast step bolt in place. Jim Antrim and Buzz Ballenger both highly recommend this bolt be in place to avoid twisting of the mast. It is a 3/8" x 1-1/4" hex head (16 French Thread).If the mast step bolt hole is stripped or a more secure method is preferred then use a 3/8" through bolt. Remove the bolt forward of the compression tube underneath the deck. This will allow a bolt to go all the way through the deck step, the deck, then the underlying compression tube plate. A delrin washer on top and a fender washer on the bottom are recommended. Click here for a picture. |
|
Sails / Fraying rigging tape |
When taping cotter pins and rings, first place a large drop of clear silicone seal on the end of the cotter pin/ring. This silicone bead will prevent the sharp edge it is covering from cutting the tape from the inside. When the silicone is dry, then tightly tape fitting with self amalgamating rigging tape. Once taped, smear a thin film of the clear silicone on the tape to prevent the ends from unwrapping. |
Steve Rienhart |
Exterior gelcoat surfaces - hull and underbody only. |
303 UV Protectant. Make sure all other wax or coatings are removedJohn Shepard Exterior Gelcoat surfaces - Keel, Rudder, BottomSilicon or Teflon-based waxSteve Rienhart Keel BulbSand with 100 grit. Click here for a picture. Fill any significant voids with Marine-Tex Putty. Click here for a picture. Apply Awlgrip 545 Epoxy Primer D1001 mixed 1:1 with Converter D3001 - four coats with 8 hour intervals. Click here for a picture. Wet Sand with 240 grit to remove all brush marks and make super smooth. Click here for a picture. |
John Shepard |
Please note these tips have not been checked for compliance with Class Rules.
